Summer is the season where ‘they’ll just watch us glow”, a lyric from one of my favourite songs from Kelis – melanin pops in the sun. However, “glow ups” can easily go “toe up” when we don’t apply sufficient sunscreen, when we apply products that sensitise our skin to the sun, layer products that interact or you simply apply your latest shopping haul of new skincare products all at once. September is National Skincare Awareness, and we want you to have glowing skin all year round and just with simple tweaks you can have healthy skin.
What are the signs of healthy skin?
Healthy skin doesn’t look the same for everyone especially for people with deeper skin tones It’s not about having ‘perfect’ skin that is blemish-free or a lighter skin tone, but about skin that feels balanced, comfortable, and naturally radiant. For melanin-rich when it is well-balanced and hydrated it tends to feel soft, smooth and calm – without any uncomfortable tightness or greasiness. You might notice a natural, even glow that isn’t shiny but radiant, with fewer dry patches or dull areas. Hydrated skin also tends to look plumper, with fewer visible fine lines and a more even tone overall. For melanin-rich skin, this means that your natural complexion shines through without looking ashy, and your skin responds well to your routine—no random flare-ups or irritation. a smooth texture aside from the occasional spot.
How to treat common skincare concerns effectively
To know how to treat common skincare concerns effectively, you need to identify what is your skincare concern but this can be tricky — especially since many images online still focus on lighter complexions. On darker skin, conditions like acne, rosacea, eczema or psoriasis may appear purple, grey, or ashen rather than the classic “red” or “pink” shown in textbooks, which can delay diagnosis. There has been a proliferation of resources to support GPs and other healthcare professionals such as Skin Deep, Mind The Gap, or the British Association of Dermatologists’ Skin of Colour hub. Keep a photo diary of your skin concerns noting changes in skin tone, symptoms like itching, raised areas, rash or pain and compare it to images of how these conditions look on skin like yours – using trusted resources can help you advocate for the right care.
What should people of colour include in their skincare routine?
Dermatologists who specialise in skin of colour recommend using sunscreen that is a minimum of SPF 30 such as CeraVe AM Moisturising Cream with SPF 30. If you want additional protection against hyperpigmentation, try a sunscreen that includes iron oxides such as Heliocare 360 AR Emulsion SPF50+. It is best to keep your routine simple with a cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen. Cleanser should be gentle and hydrating with or without actives to treat your skin concern. Always apply a moisturiser that does not block your pores (non-comedogenic) such as CeraVe Oil Control Moisturising Gel Cream or Simple Rich Replenishing Moisturiser.
Hyperpigmentation is a common skincare concern in people with deeper skin tones, therefore to even out skin tone, incorporate antioxidant serums like vitamin C and targeted actives such as niacinamide or azelaic acid (e.g. Dermatica Azealic Acid 15% cream), introducing them slowly to minimise irritation. For exfoliation, choose mild chemical options such as AHAs containing mandelic acid e.g. Face Theory Mandelic Acid 10% Exfoliating Serum or PHAs (e.g. The Inkey List PHA 3% Toner) over harsh scrubs, and if dark spots persist, seek professional guidance from a dermatologist who has experience with deeper skin tones.
Can I mix prescription only (POMs) gels and creams with other actives in popular retail skincare brands?
In short, it is not advisable. When using POM (prescription-only medication) creams or gels prescribed by a GP or dermatologist such as retinoids (e.g. adapalene, tretinoin), hydroquinone, or topical steroids — it’s important to avoid mixing them with strong actives in popular retail brands. Actives like AHAs/BHAs (e.g. mandelic, lactic, kojic or salicylic acid), vitamin C, and benzoyl peroxide can all increase the risk of irritation when used POM treatments.. For example, using an acid exfoliant with tretinoin can lead to burning, flaking, rash or even damage to your skin barrier.. Similarly, combining hydroquinone with other brightening agents without professional guidance can increase sensitivity and cause uneven results, particularly among those with deeper skin tones. Always follow your GP or dermatologist’s advice and keep your routine simple, and focus on barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide, or hyaluronic acid while using prescribed treatments.
What should I do if I irritate my skin?
If your skin starts stinging, burning, flaking, or breaking out after trying a new product – stop using it immediately. First, simplify your skincare routine and strip it right back to basics: cleanse, moisturise and protect until your skin feels calm again. Avoid actives like exfoliants, retinol, or strong serums for at least a week. Apply a fragrance-free, hydrating moisturiser with ingredients like ceramides or hyaluronic acid can help repair your barrier. If the irritation includes swelling, pain, or doesn’t improve within a few days, speak to your GP.. For deeper skin tones, inflammation can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so it’simportant not to pick or scrub the area and wait for your skin to calm down before attempting to treat your hyperpigmentation, start with moisturisers that contain gentle actives such as niacinamide (e.g. CeraVe PM Moisturising Lotion).
What questions should I ask my GP or pharmacist if I am concerned about my skin and any prescribed treatments?
- Do you have a GP with a dermatology specialist I can see?
- How can I treat hyperpigmentation from my skin issue?
- When can I be referred to a dermatologist who knows about skin of colour?
- How can I minimise the likelihood of irritation from this treatment?
- Can this treatment affect pigmentation in darker skin tones?
- Are there any products or ingredients I should avoid while using this treatment?
The information provided in this blog is for educational and informational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice. If you have questions about your health, speak to your GP or specialist.
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